Hello my dear gardening friends,

Happy new year to you all! I have started out very well. I have kept one of my resolutions already – I have spent the day ironing! It is all done, what is more amazing is how one finds a whole “new” wardrobe at the bottom of the clothes basket!!!!

I was going to a friend’s house for New Year’s Eve. I went upstairs, got dressed and thought that I would lie on the bed for a few minutes and watch a little television. I awoke at 7 a.m. New Year’s Day! I missed the whole thing – to think that I used to dance all night!!!!!!!

I thought that I would talk about forcing bulbs this week – we all look forward to the Spring when we see “clouds of golden daffodils”:

The normal life cycle of a hardy spring blooming bulb goes through many complex stages before we see that pretty flower. So, here are a few observations and suggestions…

1) Dormancy - this happens naturally once the bulb has flowered;
2) The next step is the development of small feeder roots that are needed to absorb moisture and nutrients to help it bloom properly the next spring;
3) Bulbs also need a cold period to initiate the biochemical activity that starts the development of the embryonic flowers; and
4) Lastly, the bulb needs exposure to light and warmth to produce leaves, buds and of course flowers.

Bulbs planted outside in the fall go through this cycle naturally. When we plant them in say late September, they get the warmth from the sun, their little roots start to grow and as the days get cooler, they receive the necessary chilling period required. Winter time keeps them cold until the warm days return and the cycle starts over again.

When you “force bulbs” you are merely giving them the conditions that they would have received if planted outside, but they will bloom weeks earlier with a little help from us.

It takes from sixteen to eighteen weeks from the time that you plant most bulbs until they flower. If you are not planting them right away, store them in a cool, dry, spot in a well ventilated container (a bushel basket works well) at 45oF to 55oF. Remember that they are alive so look after them carefully – make sure that they are not at the mercy of mice!!

Any standard potting soil works well, but a good mixture is one third each of peat moss, perlite or vermiculite and potting soil. Put some of this mixture into a flat pat. There are special bulb pans, but they are not necessary. If you do not have one, any low container will do, but just make sure that it will not tip over easily as the flowers develop.

It is recommended that you fill the pot with bulbs – make sure that they do not quite touch each other (about ½ an inch apart) nor the sides of the container. I always plant tulip bulbs with the flat side facing the outside of the container, it becomes more attractive as the first leaves come from this side.

Set the bulbs on the top of the soil so that the pointed tips, or the top of the corms are nearly even with the top, add the soil to about ¼ inch from the top of the container leaving enough room for watering. The soil should be loose so that it drains easily and well.

Place the container in a bowl of water, leave it until the top of the soil is moist. The next step is very important – let it drain for at least a day before you put it in the dark. Make sure that you label it with the name of the bulbs (no you will NOT remember what you have planted) and the date.

Put the bulbs in a cool dark place where the temperature is between 35oF to 45oF. If you do not chill them long enough, the plants will take longer to bloom, not bloom at all and the blooms will be quite small.

Oh yes, make sure that if you use an old refrigerator for the cooling period, that there is no fruit present. This goes for any place that the bulbs are placed. Some fruits emit ethylene gas that can/will kill any flower buds.

Cover the pots, with old burlap or sheeting, not plastic, to keep the moisture in and the light out. Check on them regularly – they should not be too moist, otherwise mold will form and they will rot, however, do not let them dry out totally either.

Three to four weeks before you want blooms, bring the pot into a moderately warm and light area, be careful not to damage those tender shoots. Do not put them into direct light at once, the gradual exposure to sunlight that we do with our outside plants is required here too. Once the shoots have “greened up” put them in the direct sun, but still relatively cool temperatures in the house. Treat them as a regular houseplant. After the flowers show colour move them out of direct sunlight, still with cool temperatures. Keep the flowers away from draughts, hot air radiators, etc. If possible move to a cooler room at night – we are trying to imitate the outside spring weather. As the days lengthen it takes less time for the flowers to develop. Crocus that would take three weeks in January will bloom within two weeks in March.

You should not try to force the same bulbs two years in a row. After the flowers have died, keep the green leaves growing and just pop them into the garden in early spring. It takes about two years for them to recover in the garden after being forced for they have to re-adjust their life/blooming cycle. Give them a liquid fertiliser when you put them outside.
If you grow your bulbs in water they rarely come back – and it is better to just dispose of them in your compost. If you want to spend some time in your garden, and aren’t we all looking for an excuse to be “out there”, plant them as soon as you can work the ground again. Plant in a richly composted area and you will indeed be rewarded in a couple of years by more flowers.
Forced bulbs do need special treatment. Let their foliage die down completely and naturally, letting the soil dry out too. Cut off the stalk, shake the soil from the bulbs and pot, separate the bulbs. I like to plant them right away, but you can store them for the summer in an open container or paper bag in a cool, dark, dry cupboard, planting them in the fall. I am always scared that a) I will forget them, b) that the critters will attack them, and 3) they will just dry out and there will be nothing left.

As to the ones grown in water, do not do it – they use up all their stored energy and as they have not received any nutrients to replace/renew it, you just have to throw them away. Children love to grow things in water and I know that you want to try anyway.



Question- How do you grow Paper White bulbs in water?
Answer:
1) Choose a shallow bowl/dish without drainage holes.
2) Fill the container about two thirds full of pebbles, gravel, marbles, sea shells, etc.
3) Place as many bulbs as will fit on the stones, again ½ an inch apart with point sides up.
4) Fill the spaces around them with pebbles leaving the top half of each bulb exposed.
5) Add water just to the base of the bulbs and keep it at this level.
6) Place the container in a cool dark spot, and shoots will appear in a couple of weeks
7) When the green shoots appear, move the whole thing to a cool, sunny spot. If they do not get enough light then the shoots become leggy and fall over.
8) Three to four weeks after the shoots appear, the Paper Whites will bloom with heavily scented white flowers.
9) Discard these bulbs after flowering they will not bloom a second time (I am cheap and put them in the garden anyway – I have had some of them re-bloom).

In nineteenth-century parlours, it was popular to force hyacinths to bloom in water in special coloured bulb glasses. We can still purchase replicas of these containers in those wonderful colours of cobalt blue, deep rose and other similar colours.

A hyacinth glass is shaped like a large, open-topped hour glass with a narrow collar. The bulb rests in the upper “cup” and the roots grow in the water below – add aquarium charcoal to keep the water fresh and prevent the growth of algae. An added tip to those of you (us) who brought our fish inside for the winter months, use their water to water your plants, not only is it at the right temperature, but is full of "goodies” - we gardeners recycle everything don't we??

I mentioned those "hosts of golden daffodils". How about a bouquet of daffodils and pussy willow – this combination really lifts our spirits as we look out on to, at the moment the sea of ice that is keeping me house bound, or a large bunch of lilies that fill the house and our souls with their fragrance, makes us feel richly cosseted. At the florist, (I suggest Loblaws, speak to Deborah) choose flowers that are in full bud, just starting to open. If you take the time to condition them before making your arrangement, the flowers will last so much longer.

Conditioning bulb flowers:

Cut the stems under water – this prevents air bubbles from forming and makes sure that the water will keep flowing through the stems.
Be sure to remove any foliage that might be under water; it decays quickly and the resulting bacteria will clog the stems. It is for this same reason that we remove dead flowers and foliage. Plus it smells dreadful.

Hollow-stemmed flowers, such as narcissus, tulips and hyacinths, often form beads of moisture at the base of their cut stems. This can seal the stem and prevent it from taking up water. Remove this "bead" by either wiping it away or re-cutting the stem and putting it into the arrangement right away.
Use the preservative that comes with your flowers. If you are using your own flowers from the garden (much later on in the year) you can substitute a teaspoonful of sugar and a few drops of household bleach - no more than a 1/4 teaspoonful.
Keep the flowers cool and away from draughts, and heat registers. Keep them out of direct sunlight. Change the water in your arrangements frequently to keep the water clean. If the flowers start to droop, check that the stems are not clogged, and just re-cut them again, and place in clean water (this usually solves the problem).

If you wish to keep a bouquet of narcissus for a special occasion. If you purchase them (almost any flower) in bud, you can keep them for up to two weeks in the fridge by placing a damp towel on the bottom of the refrigerator and setting the container on it. Twice a day mist them to keep the buds slightly moist. This applies especially to roses. When rose growers compete in places like Australia, they take their flowers from Canada in coolers. You have all seen the flowers at Canada Blooms that have come from all parts of the world. Flowers are much tougher than we think if given the correct conditions(ing).

Do not mix narcissus (daffodils) with tulips, for daffodils exude a clear toxic sap that kills those tulips, and other flowers. This is the same toxin that repels mice and rabbits in the garden – no wonder our flowers succumb!!! When you cut daffodils, place the stems in clean, cool water, leave overnight or for at least four hours. Throw out the water and do not cut the stems again since they will no longer be toxic to other flowers (this works for purchased ones too).

I stupidly scalded my hand a few days ago - aloe to the rescue - it really does help. Must admit it is still somewhat sore, but not as sore as those poor people, who have and are dying due to Mother Nature. Aid is getting there finally - perhaps too late for many. Our prayers and concern go out to them.

Good gardening to us all - do not forget hats, gloves, sunscreen - ice picks and shovels. I was rescued yesterday by a dear friend in her 4 wheel drive vehicle - today I am still ice bound.

Lovingly, Beryl