It is almost half way through October, and my houseplants are still enjoying their vacation outdoors.  At night I pull them on to my covered porch, for any time now the frost will strike.

I have brought all of them close to the house, where I keep watering, and picking off yellowing and dead leaves.  I also keep checking for pests, worms and other foreign delights that will be trying to come inside for the winter!!!

It is a good idea to keep them on a porch, or someplace where the sun and humidity can not reach/ affect them, for the light is getting shorter and shorter each day and it really is time for them to return to their indoor home.

If we bring the plants straight inside from that lovely bright sunshine, they will sulk, drop leaves, or at least the leaves will turn yellow and we do not want that to happen if we can help it.

Before bringing them inside, scrub the pots thoroughly, and prune them a little to define their shape and make them smaller for the house. Give them a thorough spraying, making sure that you reach the undersides as well as the tops of the leaves.  You should have re-potted the plants in the spring before they went outdoors; if not, you may do it now, whilst it is still warm enough to work outside.

Plants recover more quickly from any treatments; when they are going outside into ideal growing conditions, so keep this in mind for next spring.

If at all possible, for the first couple of weeks keep the windows and doors open.  (I do not know what my cat will do when I have to close the doors; she has been in and out at will since May)  Be sure that the plant trays are filled with water; do not let them dry out. Spray foliage frequently to compensate for the dry indoors.  Remember that wonderful heat and humidity??  The plants will, and they will want more all winter – much like children who never let you forget a promise

I bring in flowering plants and pot them up for bloom indoors.  They last longer than cut flowers.  Wax begonias and impatiens, big plants and even volunteer seedlings have been potted up since the middle of September.  They are grouped on the porch steps, enjoying the last of the warm sunshine.  Oh I keep a full watering can near by and water them as often as possible.  Even when they wilt from transplanting they will perk up and the buds will continue to open – especially if you spray the foliage – it is the dryness that makes buds drop.  Now this will not work with all your plants, but it is worth a try.

pull them out and put them in a bushel basket with the earth,.  I have crammed as many as over a hundred plants into one basket (I get the neighbors plants too) and put the whole thing in the basement.  I keep on eye on them and do not let them dry out totally.  After about six weeks, I remove the dead, yellow and weak leaves. At that time I make sure that they are not totally drying out.

Around the end of February / early March, I bring them up into the light, weed out the weak ones, pot up the rest into individual pots, put them on a bright window ledge (the counter under a south facing window).

Why do we do this to ourselves? I had vowed that this year I would not do this.  Why then have I pulled them out of the ground and have them in plastic bags ready to start the winter ritual?? Sigh!!

I have an assortment of plants that are so very special to me:   A passion plant, orange and bell shaped, the Jasmine that Deborah gave me several years ago.  A Plumbago from Elyn, etc.  You too will have these treasures.  No matter, what, I make sure they are brought inside. 

I scrub the pots well, then put some dishwashing soap on the top of the soil, put a hose into the container and let it run and run, until the plant is not only soaked, but hopefully most of the nasties have been washed away.  A spot of ammonia is sometimes added. Once again they have been placed away from the bright light and are ready to come indoors.  These plants will be going into the basement under grow lights, for although they will drop their leaves and go somewhat dormant, I have found that they appreciate a few hours of light each day.

I loved this ”weather forecast”:  “It is usual that a dry autumn precedes a windy winter, a windy winter, a rainy spring; a rainy spring, a dry summer; a dry summer, a windy autumn.”  This certainly was the case this year!!!

Now, I am going to talk about African Violets. We all seem to have at least one tucked away someplace, that was full of flowers when that dear friend dropped it off for us – now it is sitting sulking, not blooming, really not doing anything at all just sitting like a lot of children I know!!

African Violets demand regular care, protesting when they are not comfortable.  I had some in the south window, where they thrived through the summer (shade was provided by a large tree); when the weather turned cold they seemed to “hug” the sides of the pot.  I put a foil strip around the top of the pot to help straighten out the leaves again and moved them to a warmer position. 

Under poor light conditions they grow elongated with up-reaching leaves, as well as thick stems.  We think of them as shade loving indoors.  Not true:  From October to around early April they will flourish in full sun.  In May of course, you must move them back from the glare of the window.

As for temperatures, Saintpaulias like the same temperatures that we do: 70 to 75 degrees, but not too much warmer; they will adjust to cooler temperatures, too, just like us. They need a fresh atmosphere.  Do you ever get a headache when the room feels stuffy?  I think that these plants do, too; even in the winter I either open the outside door for a little while. A good exchange of air keeps us all happy.  Of course, as soon as the spring and its warmer days arrive, I have the doors wide open for as long as possible.

African Violets crave humidity, so set them on pebble trays where the humidity tests at 65 to 70 percent.  This means keeping an eye on the level of water and topping it up as necessary.  Do not let the pots touch or stand in the water. 

If you are using those pretty plastic pots, you will not have to water as often, but if you are using clay pots with saucers, be sure to empty the saucers after about ten minutes, otherwise you will end up with crown rot.

Generally speaking African Violets prefer their soil to be kept barely moist, neither sopping wet nor bone dry.  When the weather is dull, take great care not to over water your plants.  I fertilize every time I water (all) my plants, using only a quarter the strength that is suggested on the label of the fertilizer. Something with a high middle number is good – say 12-36-14.  I also like the fish fertilizers; I use even less of these as it takes a while for the “fragrance” to dissipate!!!

Inevitably bare unsightly “necks’ do occur in older plants, if you continue to remove the outer leaves.  When this happens, knock the plant from the pot.  Either slice or cut off the roots so that it fits back into the pot low enough for the bare neck to be covered in soil.  If you are getting multiple crowns, keep an eye on them and when you first spot them developing just nip them off, you want more flowers, not more plants and foliage!!

To promote shapely plants, especially if you are planning to put them on the show table, give the plants that you have in the windows a quarter turn two or three times a week. Those under lights do not need this treatment, thank goodness, but they do need more food and water, for they are busy under those stimulating lights.

You can use the package soil for African Violets, but you will need to add sand or perlite to lighten it.  With packaged soil, it is good to start liquid feeding at once, again at a quarter the recommendation, or even ¼ teaspoon to a gallon of warm water.

Those of you on city water must draw the water at least 24 hours ahead of usage, to let the chlorine dissipate – you should always water your plants with water at room temperature.

Hopefully this will help those who say, “I cannot grow African violets.”  Follow these simple guidelines and you will have lots and lots of flowers.

My dear friend, Jordon (my extended daughter) from Rural Routes, had an African Violet that did not bloom, and the great gardener that she is, lost patience and said, “If you do not bloom then out you go”.  This was in February, she opened the window and put the plant out into the snow on the balcony.  In Apri,l when the snow melted, there was that brave little plant blooming its heart out!!!!   Guess it had not read the book saying that African Violets cannot stand the cold – we still tease her about it.

When you are bringing in your plants, take the time to dig up a little oregano and some mint, plant a few basil seeds and, of course, do not forget your rosemary – you can grow them all on a sunny window sill and you will have herbs to flavour your food all winter .

I love either mint or dill in my potatoes especially through the cold winter days; it “cheers” up the food.

Soon it will be Guy Fawkes day – November the fifth.  I try to have a bonfire (as they do in England), taking this opportunity to burn some of the dead and diseased leaves.  We eat bonfire toffee on this night and an easy recipe is ( by request):
450 g (1-lb) demerara sugar
75 g (3 oz) butter
1.25 ml (1/4 tsp) cream of tartar
100 g    (4oz) black treacle
100 g    (4 oz) golden syrup

Put the sugar and 150 ml (¼ pint) water in a large heavy-based saucepan with a sugar thermometer attached and heat gently until dissolved.  Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil.

Boil until the temperature reaches the soft crack stage 132ºC (270ºF); this is when a little of the syrup dropped in cold water separates into hard but not brittle threads.  Brush down the sides of the pan occasionally with a pastry brush dipped in water.  Do not stir.
Pour into a greased 18 cm (7 inch ) square tin.  Cool for about 5 minutes, then mark into squares with an oiled knife when almost set.  When set, break the toffee into squares and wrap in waxed papers or foil.  Store in an airtight container.

For Toffee Apples
Wipe 6-8 medium apples, push either a wooden skewer or cocktail stick into each core – make sure that they are secure.
Make the treacle toffee, and boil until the temperature reaches 143º C (290º F).  Dip the apples into the toffee, swirling around for a few seconds to allow the excess toffee to drip off, then leave to cool and set on a buttered baking sheet or wax paper.  Do not keep for more than a day.