GreatGardenStuff.com
GreatGardenStuff – Newsletter, October 27, 2004

Hello my dear gardening friends,

We are coming to the end of October with ghosts, ghouls and goblins, not to mention the lunar eclipse – which is to be seen on Wednesday evening – it is the last full lunar eclipse until 2007.

"Mother of this unfathomable world… I have watched thy shadow and the darkness of thy steps And my heart ever gazed on the depth of thy deep mysteries"
- Percy Bysshe Shelley

Of all that is wondrous, mysterious, magical and most powerful is the Moon. Since ancient times, peoples have looked to the Moon to define the order of their days. The Sun’s cycle could only dictate the passing of the seasons; people needed a way to mark time in smaller increments. The first calendars, therefore, were Lunar – the division of weeks and months decided by the Moon's waxing and waning phases. The Chinese philosophy of Ying and Yang is based upon these same principles, and both Muslim and Jewish cultures still divide their years by the Moon’s cycle.

The tangible nature of the Moon’s energy is indisputable. Ocean tides, spawning fish earthquakes and catastrophic weather phenomena have all been studied in direct correlation to the Moon’s cyclical temper. I loved some of these ‘findings”.

The New Moon

The moon comes out from her hiding place and begins to show herself as the Maiden, this is a thin strip of light in the eastern sky and is the time to bless and begin new projects, anything that requires energy to grow, such as gardens, business ventures, new homes etc. Personal growth and healing are drawn to you, as are love, abundance, health and success. The time between the New and the Full Moon is called Waxing. The phase between the Full Moon and the New Moon is called Waning; this is the time to reject or release anything that is negative, illness, habits (good time to stop smoking?) or addiction.

The Full Moon

Is the Mother in all her glory, sailing high in the heavens, trailing silvery skirts across the bright earth – this phase between the Full and the New Moon is called the Waning Moon. Three days before the New Moon, the goddess goes into hiding, not showing herself at all in the heavens and leaving the earth in darkness. This is a period of rest, and meditation and is called the Dark Moon - not a time for excuses for you to stop gardening.

October was the Blood Moon, Falling Leaf Moon or Moon of the Changing Seasons, time for transition, release inner peace past lives and completions. Have you taken photo's of your garden yet, and even had them developed???

November is the Snow Moon, Mourning Moon or Moon of Storms. This is a time for rest and preparation (get those gardens photographed) and transformation. All in fun, perhaps? It does seem to apply to gardeners. We can read this information in the Old almanac and many do consult it before planting a garden!!!

When something seemed impossible my mother would say “yes when there is a Blue Moon”, which I of course took to be the impossible. However the thirteenth Full Moon of the year is called the Blue moon and occurs as the second of two Full Moons in a given calendar month. The Blue Moon is a powerful time for setting long term goals. Consult those catalogues Jack’s grandmother said, “Yes when man walks on the moon,” little did she know that it would indeed happen one day, pity she wasn’t alive to see it!!!



I have been asked to run over growing herbs so although this is late for this year perhaps this will help for next spring or perhaps some of you are going to grow herbs as Christmas gifts?? I am planning on growing bulbs for this reason!!!

HERBS: with thanks to Linda Fierheller (Master Gardener)

Most herbs need 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day – if you are growing under grow lights I would extend this to 10 to 12 hours, the soil must be well drained and just normally fertile. Herbs will grow in poor soil, but despite popular belief Herbs do better in good soil you will get bigger and healthier plants. As so many herbs originate in the Mediterranean, they tolerate dry soil better than wet, so if you forget to water them for a few days, it will be all to the good, although do not let them dry out totally – just make sure that their roots are not sitting in water. If they are outside make sure in the Spring that they are not sitting in the “run-off from winter snows". Correct drainage is essential. Mulching will make many herbs more drought tolerant in the summer time

Harvesting and Freezing herbs :-

Harvest herbs mid-morning after the dew has dried. Their essential oils (flavours) are the strongest just before flowering. Wash and dry well place in a re-sealable bag or chop add water to make a thick puree, pour into ice cube trays, freeze and label well (one cube is equal to 1 tablespoon).

If you are going to dry them, use a dark/low light and well ventilated area. For long stemmed herbs tie 4 to 6 stems/bunches together and hang upside down. For short stemmed/heavy-leaved, set out individually on screens and let dry. Seed heads: hang upside down in paper bags, with air holes punched into the bag – make sure that the holes are fairly small, you do not want to lose the seeds.

Herbs are dry when crisp to the touch and/or the seeds are brown and drop easily from the heads. To Store:
Store as whole as possible to preserve essential oils until used. Use dark coloured glass containers and be sure that the storage area is cool, dark and dry. Check periodically to ensure that no mould has started.

Herbs to start from seed:

Annuals: Dill, anise, basil, coriander/cilantro (be careful with this one I am super allergic to it) fennel, pot marigold and chervil.

Perennials: English thyme, lovage, winter savoury, hyssop and sweet icely. As always be sure to read the instructions on the packages for some have special requirements as to germination and growing needs.

Herbs for Moist Areas:
Bergamot (Bee balm, Monarda or Oswego tea) mint (will grow anywhere), angelica, comfrey and lovage.

Herbs for shade:
Angelica, sweet cicely, parsley and sweet woodruff do well in the shade. If the shade is light or dappled, basil, chives, lemon balm, French tarragon and lemon balm all do well. I grow lots of chives and garlic in the sun, all around my roses. I never have black spot nor aphids – try it. Garlic incidentally has white flowers in the fall, with the sweetest perfume – very strange?

Propagation Methods for Herbs :-

Cuttings : Take 4-6” slips from chosen plant – Rosemary does very well. Remove lower leaves, dip in rooting hormone, and insert end into slightly moistened soil (potting soil or soiless mix at this time of year). Put several stems into a pot but do not allow the remaining foliage to touch each other. Place pot in a clear plastic bag, insert a tall stick. Loosely tie bag around the stick. Place the pot in good light – not direct sun – watch for humidity build up and release the tie for several hours to allow air to circulate, this prevents mildew from forming. Watch for new leaf growth. Transplant into pots, shade for a few days to reduce transplant shock – and there you have done it!!! I use old pop bottles, cut down to make a small greenhouse. If you have an old "fridge" that is warm on the top, this makes an excellent place to put your seeds to encourage germination and rooting cuttings.

Layering is another option: Scratch out a shallow trench under the chosen stem (this works for other plants too) measure for the length to be placed in the trench, remove all foliage from the section to be planted, scratch along that section to roughen up the stem and encourage rooting, leaving a short section of stem above ground at the end away from the mother plant; cover the stem with soil, holding down with a forked stick or stone and mark the location. When tips begin to show new growth – several leaves, carefully – oh so very carefully, dig down and check for roots. If the plantlet is well rooted, sever from the mother and transplant. If not, leave until next spring.

What herbs do well in containers?

A half-barrel can hold five basil, two parsley and one each of oregano, sage, dill or fennel and a thyme or two. Personally I love the different coloured and fragrant thymes, together in one container with the lovely lacy fronds of either dill or fennel. By the by do not plant dill and fennel together as they will cross pollinate and the seeds spoilt (sex in the garden again).

The oregano, sage and thyme should be planted in the ground in early fall as they are perennials and will die if left in the barrel all winter. Mint does well in a container, provided that it has shade at mid-day and is kept well watered. It is a good place to grow mint for it will not wander as readily, the stems will hang over the sides and spread where it is not wanted.

In the fall sink the pot into the ground to avoid winter kill – there are many mints these days and they are all delightful. Do you remember “the Little Shop of Horrors”? I am sure that it was Mint that was the cause of all those problems or maybe it was the Triffids!!!!

What herbs do well indoors in the winter?

If there is plenty of good light – or under grow lights, parsley, basil and bay do well in the winter time – other than the bay and I had one for many years, start all your plants over, they do not take kindly to coming into the house. Herbs also dry out very quickly in our warm homes. Check your plants every day by putting your finger into the soil to a depth of about an inch – do not rely on water meters, making sure that they are not too dry. If it is dry, water. When you do water make sure that the water runs out of the pot into the saucer, let the pot sit in this water for about 30 minutes, ensuring that the soil is moist all the way through, pour off the remaining water.

Thyme, oregano and sage do not do well in the house as it is too dry, light is too poor and they become leggy, spindly buggy and will even die, for they really need a dormant period for their best performances – leave them outside to enjoy the snow. If these plants are close to the house, and you can reach them in the winter, their leaves are still good for soups and stews. Remember I keep telling you that your herb garden should be very close to your kitchen!!

Will rosemary over-winter?

Rosemary is a very tender perennial, so pot it up before any frost - mine is still growing well. Pot it up and treat it as a houseplant. It must never dry out, needs lots of humidity, spraying the foliage several times a week helps a lot. Put pebbles in a deep saucer, fill with water and stand the rosemary pot on the pebbles- it is good for you too – anything that puts moisture into the air will help to cut down on colds, etc.

Renew the water as it evaporates. Water deeply when the soil is dry to the touch and be very sure that the plant is not in an area where hot air (or cold draughts) is blowing on it. Begin to fertilise again in February or March. This is a wonderful plant and I am sure that friends and family would love one for Christmas – I grow mine over a hoop, so that it forms a small arch – with a tiny poinsettia (potted) placed under the archdelightful.

How old are these seeds?

Place ten seeds between damp sheets of paper towels (for we oldies, blotting paper). Wait one week, the number that germinate is a good indication as to the percentage that will grow for you.

I will mention “Damp-Off”: This is for those of you starting fresh herbs in the next week or so.
Description: New seedlings collapse without warning.
Control: Make a one part bleach to 4 parts water solution and disinfect all your tools – you should do this constantly, especially when pruning or working in the garden.
Use a commercial potting soil or sterilise your own in the oven – not a good idea for the smell is horrendous. Make sure that the soil is well drained, good air circulation around seedlings, that the seeds are not shown too thickly and always water from the bottom to avoid wetting the seedlings. Use “Damp Off” this is a commercial product on sale wherever plants and gardening “stuff" is sold. If you are an organic grower try a weak solution of chamomile tea on the seedlings. Chamomile is reputed to be a natural fungicide or go to Loblaws – speak to Deborah – Loblaws no longer sell toxic chemicals – they are the first of the commercial garden centres to stop selling toxic pesticides – congratulations to them.

Which bulbs are good for forcing?

Crocus and there are many kinds – no longer just the pretty purple ones, daffodils, I love the tiny ones, grape-hyacinths, regular hyacinths, please do not grow these lovely things in water – for once depleted they will not recover, give them a good potting soil, and they will reward you for many years (placed in the garden after blooming and fertilised well), narcissus, paperwhites, snowdrops and even tulips. You can pot them up now and enjoy throughout the winter – ordinary six-inch pots are satisfactory. I know that you all have them lying around from the spring plants that you purchased! Why is it we are always so reluctant to get rid of plant pots!!! Back to the bulbs. Gather them up and CLEAN them, scrub with a stiff brush if they are particularly dirty. Keep the taller ones for the long stemmed tulips and daffodils the shorter ones are for the crocus, hyacinths and snowdrops. Put something in the bottom to stop the soil from coming out, that broken plant pot works well. Fill with soil to the level so that the point of the bulb sits about an inch below the edge of the rim. The number of bulbs can be calculated by allowing each one to sit in the middle of a circle that has a radius of three to four inches. When the bulbs are in position, fill with soil and press it down firmly between the bulbs, the soil should be about a third of an inch from the top of the pot and just covering the bulbs, place this pot in a pan of water until the soil is soaked with the moisture. Place the pots where it is dark and cool – that spare unheated bedroom, put them under the beds.

But do not forget about them – mark it on your calendar. Starting around the beginning of December you can start bringing a pot into the warm and light, not more than 60 degrees, for at least two weeks, this gives the above ground parts to develop and become firm. If given regular room temperatures at once, the leaves and flowers will form, but they will be so soft that they will not stand erect. After the preliminary hardening off treatment, place the pots in a sunny window – you can wrap the pots in pretty cotton, paper or other decorative covers. I am going to place mine inside other pots - if you do one a week you can have blooming bulbs right until they are blooming outside again. Oh Queen Victoria adored Lily of the Valley and insisted on fresh lilies in her bedroom every day - the poor gardeners, stored the "pips" in peat moss and brought them into bloom for her - daily - can you imagine the trouble that must have been????

Thank you all so much for your notes and good wishes when I was so very sick, I am pleased to say that I am much better now, all we need is to win the lottery, then life would be perfect however.

For those of you who have healing and prayer circles, I ask you to pray for Don Goode, Margaret’s husband he is very, very ill - in the Peterborough Regional Centre ( Civic Hospital). My dears our love and caring go out to you both. Also to my daughter’s friend’s family, who have just lost a young, beloved husband and father. Life is not all flowers, we get the weeds along with everything else.

Good gardening and clean up to you all – watch for the eclipse on Wednesday night (tonight). It is going to be happening late this evening I understand and will last for about an hour – the moon will appear to be orange – which is the reflection of the sun. I do not quite understand if it is an eclipse how we can see the moon – I will have to go outside and watch.

Hats, gloves, maybe warmer ones, sunscreen – yes you still need it, bug repellent, and hats. Thanks to the mysterious fairies who came and brought in my docks – I just found them – thank you.

Good gardening, lovingly Beryl

Contact :: Greatgardenstuff.com