"How can I get rid of the rabbits in my garden so they don't ruin my flowers? As for the flowers that have already been ruined - will they grow back if I protect them?"

"One way to deter critters is to mark your territory with human urine - if you do not have an obliging husband or son - you can always collect it and use outside. Human hair is another old time remedy.
This is a quote from Sleeping with a sunflower :-
Rabbits Away:
"Of course the best defence against rabbits in the garden is a 2 to 3 foot wire fence (maybe electrified?) anchored in the ground, but this is not always practical. Or maybe it is your flower beds that they are visiting at night. Oldtimers knew a thing or two about rabbits and how to foil them, and one way that was often successful was to spread human hair around plants to keep them away (hair is very good for your garden - contains all kinds of nutrients). You might contact your friendly neighbourhood barber shop and ask their help for a quantity of hair,after all they do have to dispose of it.!!"
A small yappy dog works wonders too - persist with the blood meal it usually works. As to the flowers re-blooming - you did not mention what kind of flowers they are. If they are annuals, they will re-bloom and re-grow but if they are spring perennials they will be about finished now anyway other than the summer ones, keep your eyes on beans, peas and other succulent plants - I wonder if a plastic bottle with the bottom removed and placed over the plant would help - as would chicken wire crushed over the plant to form a cover - rather tent like but again firmly anchored - I feed mine and they are so lazy they only eat what is before them!!!!"
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"I've got a very nice PeeGee Hydrangea I planted about 18 months ago. Lots of flowers and healthy, so far. Unfortunately I have to move it because I'm getting a deck built in the spring.
1. should I move it now while it's in its full glory?
2. If yes... should I cut back the blooms before moving?
3. If no, when should I move it?
4. I'm moving it to the middle of my back yard, can I just dig a hole in the grass, or what is the best method?"

"My dear - this is a great time to move any bush - I wouldn't cut it back, make sure that the hole you dig is really big enough, this is the usual problem that leads to a plant's demise. Make sure that you plant it in a sunny spot, water it very well and do not ferlise it (I would clear away the grass otherwise it will be a mess down the road)."
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"My evergreen shrub looks awful; its leaves have been chewed by insects."

"Your shrub will likely look unsightly for several years, but the top growth of most perennials will die down in the winter. So, to make sure that they get a fresh start in the spring, remove all of the dead growth in the fall, because it is likely to harbour pests over the winter."
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"Why has my Clematis suddenly developed brown leaves and died?"

"I think that you have Clematis Wilt; it is a disease caused by a fungus (cochyta clematidina). It is a common and widespread problem on cultivated clematis. Young shoots will suddenly wilt and collapse, usually when they have been growing rapidly. Dark patches appear on older leaves, and open, discoloured marks are seen on the stem. Hybrid clematis are affected, particularly the large, summer-flowering cultivars, which can collapse and die within days. What to do: Remove and burn and infected stems and leaves. Apply cresylic acid as a soil drench around the plant. If you are lucky some of your plants may recover, re-growing from the base. Avoid damaging the base of the stem; be particularly careful when weeding. I hope that this is helpful. Also, consider growing Clematis viticella types, which to offer some resistance."
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"I dislike growing glads in straight rows in my garden. Where can I grow them so that they are unobtrusive?"

"Do not confine your annuals just to the flowerbeds; try tucking some in amongst the vegetables. Gladiolus are not the most decorative of plants, so a couple of rows in and amongst the veggies, will allow you to enjoy their gorgeous flowers, without looking at a row "of soldiers"!! Do not forget to lift them out of the ground after the leaves have died down and before the hard frosts."
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"How many plants do I need in each planter?"

"This is a tough question. It depends on what one grows, where it is placed etc. A good rule of thumb is a standard plant per foot apart, and a trailing plant each eighteen inches. This should make such a mass of greenery and coloured flowers, as to hide the container, which is what you are trying to do."
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"How long does it take for a compost pile to break down, so that it is ready for the garden?"

"My grandfather would dig a trench and fill it with vegetable refuse, and then just cover it over and plant right on top. However, a well-managed pile takes about a year to break down all the material; the secret is to keep turning it over. I have a black composter; a couple of times a year I get a grandson to help me slide to composter off the pile and place it next to the original pile. I take the top portion and place it in the bottom of the composter, to start over, and the rich dark remains, go onto my garden."
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"I have a small garden. My neighbour’s tree creates a lot of shade – so much that I only get a couple of hours of sun in the morning. What can I grow in these conditions? "

"I would suggest that you try bleeding heart, primulas (providing that it isn't a wet spot), veronica (it will grow almost anywhere), digitalis, phlox, iris, impatiens, rhododendrons, azalea, periwinkle, begonias, and my favourite, hostas… lots and lots of hostas, Hostas flower, and will give you fragrance for a little while, Try lilies too - they grow better in some shade. Scrounge some from a neighbour; they are very cheap to buy and give so much back, I particularly love Casablanca, pure white, with a fragrance from heaven."
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"Someone else asked about small, green pineapple shaped growth on some of her spruce trees, and wanted to know if these are galls or immature cones?"

"It is the time of year when we start to find galls on plants and trees. Galls are those little houses made by aphids or mites that are living on the host plant material. You can find them on leaves, fruits, stems or even seeds in the garden. Trees such as oak, spruce, poplar, maple and willow are often hosts to the gall forming insects. Most galls look like small bulbs; spruce galls resemble immature spruce cones. Some of the ornamentals, silver and soft maples will start to look unsightly if the number of galls are particularly heavy. To answer the question, they are indeed galls. If you cut one of these balls (galls) open in the summertime, you will find little green wingless aphids inside. Pick off and burn as many as you possibly can, or easier, but more costly, spray in the early spring using a tree and shrub spray, such as Dormant Oil Spray. You can also spray in the fall after the insect leaves the galls, but before the eggs are deposited on the twigs. These are the start of next year's aphids - see our work is never finished in the garden. Also, be vigilant; when you see a problem cope with it at once - life will be easier than letting the problem "grow". "
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"What to do with my evergreens? The needles are turning yellow and falling off."

"You really need not be worried for this is quite normal. It depends which species you have, some evergreens will keep their needles from one to five years. Each year new needles are produced and some of the older needles will die and fall off, just as you described. Remember that if you have new evergreens, you must keep watering them; despite all the rain this year, water them copiously, for this is vital to prevent the plants from dying - they can actually die of thirst."
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"How do I get rid of cabbage worms?"

"The cabbage worm is the destructive larva of the common white butterfly. It is a velvety green and little more than an inch long, feeding on cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts. Best approach: Pick them off and stomp on them! If you must spray, make sure that you use the pesticide at least two weeks before harvesting. Do ask someone knowledgeable about sprays, but I would try soap, water with a half cup of ammonia before anything else."
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"We are moving and I would like to take my Butterfly bush with me, is this good time to move it?"

"No!! A Butterfly bush (buddleia) should not be moved until the spring – they are not expensive and I would purchase another one in the spring, leaving yours where it is, unless you can make an agreement with the new owners to collect it next year. In the spring, of course. Some bushes that should not be moved now are: Spice bush, hawthorn, sumac, magnolia, tamarisk, Japanese snowball or viburnum. Wait until spring before moving any of the above shrubs. "
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"Is it too late in the year to compost garden soil for my houseplants for use this winter?"

"I am afraid so, for this winter at least. It takes a full year to compost potting soil. Cut sod four or five inches thick from clean pasture or lawn (or purchase sod) placing it face down in layers as the pile builds up. Add well-rotted manure between the layers, which saves you the task of adding it later on. Turn the pile several times during the summer – and low and behold potting soil; however, most garden centres still have lots of potting soil so I would purchase it already made. You can add supplements if you like, but I think that in the long run it will be cheaper and less work for you. After all you have lots of other things to do before the winter."
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"Would you review a potting mix “recipe”?"

"A good general potting mix may be made by taking seven parts of compost, or good garden soil, two parts organic matter, well rotted-leaf mould or peat, one part well-rotted manure and two parts building sand (no salt). It is usually wise to add a four inch pot of super-phosphate to each wheel barrow load or each two and a half bushels. Mix all the ingredients well before the soil is used. If the soil is not particularly rich, add another four inch pot of 5-5-5 fertiliser. "
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"What do I do with the zucchinis that did grow and why have some of the plants not produced any fruit?"

"If no fruits set – cold wet weather stops insect activity and thus natural pollination – you will have to hand pollinate. The female flower has a tiny thickened section of stem, just behind the flower. Pick a male flower, remove the petals, and brush the male organ against the centre of the female flowers, being as careful as possible. Sex in the garden!! Pick the zucchini as soon as they are about 4 inches long and keep picking, unless you want some to grow like marrows, which are good for stuffing. The first fruits will be ready from roughly 10 to 12 weeks after planting. You can eat very small zucchini raw, sliced in salads – covered in walnut oil - mmm good. Slightly larger ones are very good lightly cooked. One of the best ways, I have found is to slice them lengthwise fairly thin, and cooked very briefly in boiling salted water. Drain and then fry them in oil with crushed garlic and parsley for a few minutes, until they are brown. Larger ones can be baked in the oven with some of your sliced tomatoes. Slice the fruits in rings and layer them in a greased oven proof dish, dot with butter, cover with breadcrumbs and fresh mixed herbs or your choosing and bake for about 20 minutes in a 400 degree F oven. For a quick and easy zucchini dish: slice into rounds, boil until just soft, drain, add a little butter and grated parmesan cheese, stir and serve. Ready in about five minutes."
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"How do you make herb tea?"

"I am often asked about herb teas and how one makes them. "Timed Brew - The hot water is to remain upon it [the tea] no longer than whiles you can say the Miserere Psalm (Psalm 51) very leisurely." (Sir Kenelm Digby) from The Closet Opened. The custom of "taking tea" began in the early 1600, so the coffee break is by no means a new phenomenon. This began when the East Indian Company first offered the loose leaves for sale. Now, how to make a proper pot of herb tea: First, bring fresh, cool water to a rolling boil. Rinse a china, pottery, or other non-metal teapot with some of the hot water (non-metal pots help keep the tea pure in flavour and hot whilst it brews). Next, toss in the herbs (roots, seeds, pods, leaves) using 2 tablespoons of fresh or 1 tablespoon of dried for each cup of water that you will be using, plus an extra 2 tablespoons fresh or 1 tablespoon dried for the pot. (In other words if you are brewing 4 cups of tea use 10 tablespoons fresh herbs or 5 tablespoons dried). Pour in the boiling water and let steep for about 5 minutes. Keep the pot covered - a tea cosy works well to retain the heat. Steeping time will vary depending upon the kind of herb that you are using, so keep tasting it until it is “just right”. Strain the herbs out as soon as the tea has reached the desired strength. Serve it with honey, lemon, orange slices, or fresh herb sprigs.

Chamomile tea made from the flower heads of the plant is a good aid for digestion and upset stomachs. It has been reported to even improve one's disposition. Good for the boss? Lemon verbena, lemon balm, and lemon grass are three lemon-scented herbs that make pleasant tasting tea, whether served hot or cold. Use each alone or in combination, or even with other herbs. Use one of them to replace the slice of lemon often served with tea. Borage leaves used in hot, cold, or iced tea give a lift after a hard day. The pretty blue flowers add interest to iced tea and improve the flavour. Rosemary tea helps cure headaches and colds. Use it alone or in combination with other herbs. Sage produces a full-bodied tea useful for colds and fever or as a tonic Catnip tea and catnip and fennel tea have long been used to alleviate colic in babies."
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"How do I know when it is time to pick my grapes?"

"Depending upon the type that you have grown, grapes are normally harvested in early to mid fall. Generally, they are fully ripe once the stem has started to turn slightly brown. The bunch of grapes is cut off the vine with a 2 inch stem to act as a handle."
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"Is it possible to eat grape leaves and how are they prepared?"

"Yes - and they are delicious! Take 6 vine leaves, 6 small goat cheeses or cut up a larger one into 6 pieces, 3 tablespoons of a good olive oil and 12 cherry tomatoes. Wash and dry the vine leaves, then blanch in boiling water for two minutes. Dry them again and place one piece of cheese in the centre of each leaf, make a parcel of the leaves, wrapping them and tying them with raffia. Place them on a cookie sheet, pour the olive oil over the pockets and cook in a 425 degree oven for about 10 minutes, giving the cheese chance to melt – serve decorated with halved tomatoes. They are really very good. (if you don’t like goat’s cheese, try feta, brie, camembert or mozzarella."
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"Why are my plants just sitting there and not growing?"

"This past winter was very hard on every living thing. The long days and nights of 40 degrees F below and the long cold spring have left the ground very cold - nothing will grow until the ground really warms up. We have not had a sufficient number of warm nights yet - be patient - it will happen!"

“What is the best time to divide and transplant perennials?”

A very simple rule of thumb is to move and divide spring-blooming perennials in the fall and fall blooming perennials in the spring – Easy??
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“What does Cultivar mean?”

Cultivar comes from two words (cultivated variety), meaning it is a variation of a certain species that is not normally found in the wild.
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“How much is a yard of soil?”

One cubic yard covers an area 10’ x 12’ area to a depth of 1” to 2”.
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“What is a hybrid?”

It is a cross between plants of a different species. This can occur in the wild (“random act of mother nature”) or through cultivation (done by a gardener). Hybrids are identified with an “x” in their name. Hybrid plants cannot come true from seed and so will not always resemble their parent.
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"What do rose judges look for?"

"Read GGS.com's 'judging' section for details!"
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What is an annual/perennial?

Annuals are plants grown from seeds; they create spectacular summer displays, filling in spaces in the garden, overflowing our containers, brightening dark areas with their pretty flowers, all summer long. Once the frost comes, though, they die leaving seeds for us to collect and start all over again next spring. Annuals and bi-annuals are short-lived plants, usually grown for one season only. After flowering they will die down and very rarely survive one of our winters. Annuals come into flower within 12 months of the seed being sown. Bi-annuals usually flower in the second flowering season of their lives, and then they too, are gone.

Perennials are plants that die down in the fall too, but although they die right down to ground level, they will develop fresh, new shoots in the spring - blooming for a little while only. For instance, a rose is actually a perennial plant. Most perennials, if not killed by disease, cold, the gardener, or unsatisfactory growing conditions, will live for many years. Some, called short lived perennials, may last only 3 to 5 years, although you can often save them by dividing them each year.

Other perennials with - and sometimes without division - often outlive the gardener who planted them. I have a hydrangea that my father- in- law planted in 1940; he died in 1960 (even his three sons are all gone), but that plant is as beautiful as ever. Hardy perennials are those that can survive very low wintry temperatures, but whether or not it can stand the high summer temperatures, drought, or poor soil conditions depends on the species. Not all hardy perennials are heat tolerant.
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Can I freeze chives?

I had a call about potatoes growing in a window box. This morning I had a call from the same people asking if one can freeze chives – surprise, surprise. Do freeze chives - both kinds, but be sure to label them (plain or garlic). My friend washes, freezes, and then snips the stems into jars and puts them back in the freezer - we enjoy almost fresh chives all winter - especially on those wonderful potatoes. Personally I am addicted to mint sauce - I gather as much mint as possible, wash and throw the leaves and stems into the blender with a couple of spoons of sugar and malt vinegar. It keeps all winter at the back of the fridge and is just the right pick-me-up during those long cold winter days. Use on anything but try it especially on frozen peas!
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Should I use coloured or white lights in the garden?

I was recently asked if I recommend coloured lights for lighting the garden at night? I prefer white lights. With white lights, coloured objects become more vivid and foliage is a brighter green. There are so many to choose from; right now I am using a solar light which needs a lot of sunshine to "fire it up" but will burn for several hours with a cool pleasant white light. There are also lights for particular effects: spread lights to light up trees and patios, mushroom lamps for downward illumination on flowers beds and ground covers, upward lights to show off the underside of foliage, and border lights for safety along the border walks and especially for steps. It is up to the individual's own wants, needs and, choice - coloured lights can be used to create special effects. Although yellow is recommended as a bug deterrent, I haven't actually found it to be so.
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I have found some small, green, pineapple-shaped growth on some of my spruce trees. Are these galls or the cones of the tree?

These are not the cones of the tree; they are galls of the spruce gall aphid. If you open one of these green balls in the summer, you will see little green wingless aphids inside. Pick off and burn the green galls, or spray in the early spring before growth begins, with Dormant Oil Spray. You may also apply a spray in the fall after the insects leave the galls, before eggs are deposited on the twigs to start next year's crop of aphids.
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I can’t use one corner of my garden, because hornets have built a nest there. Help!

Hornets and wasps are not too much of a problem anymore. There is a spray that will kill the insects in question. Wait until it is getting dusky, or after it is dark, and spray the nest thoroughly, making sure that it is "wet ". Wait about a half an hour. Spray the inside of a large plastic garbage bag. Then, with a long pole, knock the nest into the bag. Tie up the top of the bag tightly and discard in the garbage. I used to use this method quite often as Jack was super allergic to stings. Now I just leave them alone and they seem to do the same… so far I haven't been stung.
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What is a gall insect?

Galls are homes made by aphids or mites, who live on host plant material. They can be found on leaves, fruits, stems or seeds in the garden. Trees such as oak, spruce, poplar, maple and willow are hosts to gall forming insects. Most galls look like small bulbs, but spruce galls look like immature spruce cones. Some ornamentals, such as silver and soft maples look unsightly when the number of galls is extremely heavy. Spray spruce in early May, and maples in late May, using the tree spray especially for this. When I was teaching crafts, we used galls as heads for "space creatures" which worked very well – so you know that they aren’t all bad.
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